Stepping foot onto the grounds of the world's oldest running rum distillery, Mount Gay with Maggie Campbell.

The drive to St. Lucy sets the stage for our immersive experience at Mount Gay Distillery. As we approached the historic site, surrounded by lush vegetation and the rhythmic swaying of sugar cane, the intense rain gave way to radiant sunshine, and a sense of anticipation filled the air. The 30-minute drive to the distillery gave us insight into the diverse and dynamic character of rum production itself.

Arriving at the entrance, we were initially struck by a sense of calm. It felt as if the place was empty, far from what one might imagine when thinking of a bustling and noisy production facility. The good news was that Maggie Campbell was there and greeted us with a bright smile that remained constant throughout our visit.

Formerly the Head Distiller at Privateer Rum, Maggie brings a wealth of experience and expertise to her role at Mount Gay as the new Estate Rum Manager. Since joining the team in 2021, she has taken on the responsibility of overseeing many projects, from sugarcane production through bottling. One of her main accomplishments since her arrival is working with a team to construct a sugar mill from bare bones to final commissioning.

Our visit began in front of the molasses house. From there, we had a panoramic view of the sugarcane fields, as the Estate is situated on elevated grounds. The topography of the location makes it ideal for water sourcing, with natural irrigation from rainfall and a vast reserve of mineral-rich groundwater in the soil. This unique setup at Mount Gay contributes to its distinctiveness in the Barbados rum production.

At the entrance near the molasses house, we could see a large residence where some members of the Ward family still reside. This family owned Mount Gay for nearly a century until they sold the majority control of the company to Rémy Cointreau in 2014. If you are interested in the rich history of Mount Gay and the significant role of the Ward Family, I highly recommend the excellent book 'Modern Caribbean Rum' by Matt Pietrek. For more detailed information, visit Cocktail Wonk.

Maggie informed us that Mount Gay continues to operate as a family business. As such, during the Christmas week, activities are kept to a minimum to allow everyone to savor precious family moments. The exclusive presentation of the distillery solely for Olivier and I was truly special.

Molasses Mastery: Unveiling the Essence of Mount Gay Rum

As we stepped into the molasses house, we found ourselves in a vast warehouse filled with large open-top cisterns dedicated to storing molasses. From the walkway above, we peered down into the empty cisterns, their interiors visible from above. Despite being empty during our visit, the warm scent of molasses filled the air, enveloping us in its rich aroma and adding to the sensory experience of the distillery tour.

Historically, rum distilleries have relied heavily on the sugar industry to obtain their molasses. However, with technological advancements, the sugar industry is now extracting more sugar from the cane (more heavily refine), resulting in molasses that is less desirable for rum distillers.

Mount Gay's strategy is to be extra careful with the quality of its molasses. They produce grade A molasses, which leaves behind more sugar crystals compared to the molasses typically found in the sugar production industry. Additionally, they import Caribbean molasses to ensure the highest quality for their rum production.

For those interested in learning more about this topic, I highly recommend listening to the insightful podcast 'The Rumcast,' where Maggie discusses various aspects of molasses production in detail.

Afterwards, we proceeded to the main building facility, where we were treated to a tasting session of various molasses under Maggie's expert guidance. From the rich and robust to the delicate and nuanced, each molasses showcased the depth and complexity that defines Mount Gay's signature flavor profiles. As rum enthusiasts and French individuals who often place to much great emphasis on origin and craftsmanship in products, we were particularly impressed by the meticulous attention to detail and dedication to molasses quality. To quote Maggie: 'Nowadays, everybody has different kinds of salt or coffee in their kitchen, but back then there was only one type of salt or one brand of coffee. Sugar deserve the same respect' Following this tasting, we gained a profound understanding of how molasses quality can significantly influence the final product, alongside the distillation and aging process.

Exploring the Fermentation and Distillation Core of Mount Gay

Our tour then continued to the fermentation room, where four French oak fermentation vats seemed to emerge from the floor. Mount Gay utilizes a proprietary yeast strain, but since the wooden vats are open, wild yeast also influences the fermentation process.

We then proceeded to the distillation operations, the still house. This room is beautiful! There are four double retort pot stills integrated into the wooden floor, with their bottom parts located on the lower level. One of them (the one not aligned with the others) is a Spanish Fragasa double retort pot stills from the 2000s, and the three others are Scottish McMillan double retort pot stills that have just been replaced. Maggie informed us that the Fergasa potstill will not be in service in the future.

The star of this room is the copper Coffey still. There are very few of them in the world, and since its reconditioning in 2018, Mount Gay now has one of only two that are operational. This still originated from the distillery but had been out of service since 1976; there are two others located in Scotland. Maggie explained to us that putting it back together required the assistance of a former employee who remembered how to assemble it from his time working at Mount Gay in the 1970s. Truly a mind-blowing story.

In line with the logical chronological order of the rum making process, our next stop was the aging zone. Stepping into one of the warehouses where the barrels were neatly arranged in a vertical position, the air was filled with the heady aroma of aging rum, a sensory delight. Observing those barrels patiently waiting, with only the sound of the wind passing through the open windows, instilled a feeling of serenity within us. Of note, Mount Gay is using a large variety of casks, ex-bourbon, ex-sherry, ex-Cognac and ex-Scotch casks to age its rum expressions.

At this moment, Mount Gay Master Blender Trudiann Branker entered to greet us. It was a genuine pleasure to share a moment surrounded by all the barrels. Trudiann officially assumed the role of Master Blender in April 2019, following five years working under Allen Smith, who had been with Mount Gay for over 25 years. She is the mastermind behind the creation of the Mount Gay Pot Still Master Blender Rum Collection and is leading the Estate towards a brilliant future. Due to obvious confidentiality reasons, we refrained from discussing future releases. However, with the recent investment in the sugar mill, the refurbishment of the Coffee Still, and the combined creativity of Trudiann and Maggie, we should all keep an eye on Mount Gay, as it is poised to surprise us.

Outside, before heading to our final destination, we saw the three McMillan pot stills that had been replaced (from 1960s) and waiting for a second life. Maggie remarked, 'Living on an island forces you to be creative and utilize everything that cannot easily be imported.' This philosophy aligns with Mount Gay's commitment to a more environmentally friendly and sustainable model.

Our visit concluded at the beautiful visitor center, a fairly recent building crafted from white stone and tastefully adorned. Inside, we found an array of books on rum, along with stunning photographs depicting both the recent and old history of Mount Gay. Cozy sofas were strategically placed, inviting visitors to relax and enjoy a cocktail or a neat Mount Gay rum.

At the bar, we had the chance to taste the Black Barrel cask strength that was delicious. This limited release only available in Barbados is aged in American whisky barrels and then finished in heavily charred ex-Bourbon barrels. It has been released in order to celebrate the brand’s 320th anniversary.

 As our visit to Mount Gay distillery came to an end, we couldn't help but reflect on the incredible experience we had just encountered. A big thank you to Maggie, whose infectious passion and warmth made our tour an unforgettable experience. We couldn't have asked for a better host. Her enthusiasm and dedication truly brought the spirit of Mount Gay distillesry to life.

Little did we know, our journey was not quite over yet. Just after leaving the distillery, fate intervened with a flat tire. Surrounded by the serene beauty of the cane fields, it felt as though the sugarcane itself was reluctant to see us depart from this enchanting place. However, what truly touched our hearts was the remarkable kindness of the people of Barbados. Every passing individual who saw us stranded on the road stopped without hesitation, offering their assistance with genuine warmth and sincerity. Their acts of kindness served as a poignant reminder of the incredible hospitality and generosity that embodies the spirit of Barbados.